Does the BMW 320d have turbocharger problems?

By Ferman Lao

Greetings from the Queen City of the South. Allow me to say a few good words about your articles before I introduce my concern to you. We find your articles not only informative, but we also know that we readers of Top Gear are getting the right counsel to whatever quandary we get to experience from the cars that we own. On top of this, I can sense the effort made by you to make the discussion more comprehensible by explaining in layman's terms some technical words when deemed necessary to be mentioned.

Now, here's my concern. I recently purchased a BMW 320d. But I have gathered (I just don't know how accurate) that somewhere around the 100,000km mileage, the turbo may experience problem. If this happens, the replacement or repair of such will be irrefutably expensive. Having said this, may I ask how true this turbo problem is with a 320d or perhaps even with other turbodiesel engines?

What recommendations can you give that will protect the turbo and contribute to its longevity? More (horse) power to your daily endeavor and may your charisma never cease to grow. You might want to know that you already have a strong following here in Cebu.

Your truly,

Miguel de Guzman

 

Hi, Miguel. I don't know which specific 320d model you have, but a quick look at the available information and discussions regarding turbo failures on BMW 3-Series diesels indicates that the failures are more common in the M47TDU20 series of engines, particularly the 2002-2003 model years.

This series of engine was where BMW first implemented common-rail diesel technology for the 2.0-liter diesels. With it, there was also an increase in displacement to 1,995cc from the previous-generation M47TD20's 1,951cc. Balance shafts were also incorporated in the redesign--or technical update--of the engine to quell the vibrations inherent in larger displacement four-cylinder engines.

According to available information, what caused problems in this series of engine was the "swirl flap" mechanism. The swirl flaps were butterfly valves much like a throttle body plate, but located in the individual intake runners. Over time, the retaining screws which held the plates to the actuating rods would work loose and eventually find their way to the combustion chamber causing foreign object damage. There are also instances wherein the screws would be expelled from the exhaust manifold and cause damage to the turbine blades and housing. This problem was addressed by changing out the component to one-piece flaps molded from engineering plastic.

Another possible cause is the crankcase breather filter. I have no information as to which series this problem manifests itself in, but what supposedly happens is when the breather filter gets clogged, crankcase pressure rises and this "blows" out the oil past the turbocharger's shaft seal. The result, of course, does look like turbine failure to those unfamiliar with such a problem, and vehicle owners may potentially be charged the cost of a new turbocharger unnecessarily.

Turbochargers usually fail when the seals, bearings or bushings fail due to lack of lubrication or due to contaminants in the oil, which make their way to the seals, bearings or bushings that abrade the said parts. This abrasion causes parts to wear down much more quickly than they normally would given that turbine shaft speeds spin up t0 100,000rpm. Yes, that's 100,000rpm or more than 10 times than most high-performance street engine will ever spin.

A good oil--one that's rated to handle the higher temperatures that a turbocharged engine will encounter compared to a normally aspirated engine--oil filter, and air filter change interval is the best guarantee against premature turbine failure. While that may drive up the cost of maintenance somewhat, it should still be cheaper than the cost of an unnecessary and unwanted turbine replacement due to lack of maintenance.

Best regards,

Ferman Lao
Technical Editor

Do car problems keep you awake at night? Send questions to topgear@summitmedia.com.ph

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  • mindkinetic 11 months ago
    thank you so much sir fernan for that information im sure many readers will benefit once again from thos advice. may the Good Lord continue to bless you and top geAr with infinite success.
  • RS500 11 months ago
    Diesel. We used to have diesel cars before we switched to gasoline. Isa isang nasira ung mga piyesa nung mga sasakyan dahil nga sa maruming diesel natin dito sa pinas. Fortuner, Pajero FM, Pajero BK, tas ung Montero pinaka huli. Ung natitipid ko na 2300 pesos per six months, napupunta lahat sa maintenance. Babalik lang ako sa diesel kapag euro5 variant na tayo.
    • jbedpan 11 months ago
      per my information euro 4 diesel na ang eastern petroleum at unioil, euro 5 ang seaoil. di ko pa na try seaoil.
    • jtl888 11 months ago
      even strada. Try using Shell VPower Diesel. Just maybe..
  • Aloha Milkyway 10 months ago
    I think you'll be fine if you have an E90. The LCI version also fixes the faults of the pre facelift model and goes from 177 bhp to 184.
  • carwiki 11 months ago
    Here's my problem: (Out of the topic diesel and turborchager, in in the topic, BMW.)

    Our BMW Z4 has a problem, I think the sensors or the electrical problem. Our Z4 is about 24,000 kms. mileage. (2006 model E85) and an automatic transmission. The problem is, yung shift pattern niya sa dashboard doesn't function. Parang blangko siya. Tapos may naka-display na it's like a screw nut sign and an exclamation point, what is the main problem kaya? Thanks,
    • RS500 10 months ago
      Check your fuse box. The fuse for the dash lighting might be busted.
    • melbs 11 months ago
      you obviously have a transmission error code. (read your owner's manual to know what the telltale sign is)

      but my best bet is your transmission switch is faulty (very common for all automatic bmws)

  • melbs 11 months ago
    try to change oil every 5k kms instead of bmw ph's official 10k or 1 year interval. don't shut your engine down after a hard run, let it cool down (idle) for some time.





    • carwiki 10 months ago
      Nice comment sir. I agree with your point that to change oil every 5,000kms. Environmental friendly ka pa.
  • jtl888 11 months ago
    Nahilo ako dun bigla ah, 100k rpm! D*mn! ;)
  • Edgarallan Poe 10 months ago
    (Out of topic) Kayong naka-intercooler at crdi maghanhanda na kayo sa malaking maintenance cost hehehe. Whether you like it or not madumi talaga mga diesel natin sa Pinas. Coupled with unscrupolous gas station owners at binabaha pa stations. What a recipe for disaster hehehe! Buti na lang old model sa akin kaya turbo lang at saka walang cpu na pick-up
  • raulm 10 months ago
    100,000 rpm? I am not much familiar with turbo rpm but seems to be too much. Anyone can make clarification on this? This speed overcomed speed of sound and cause sonic boom which would cause vibration and turbine damage.
    • jtl888 10 months ago
      Even though it was clarified that it's 100,000 rpm, I still can't believe it. As far as I know, maximum is 11,000 rpm. But 100,000 rpm? If this really true, then d*mn! :)
    • jtl888 10 months ago
      *If this is really true
    • jtl888 10 months ago
      and the 11,000 rpm I'm referring to has a gas engine, not diesel.
      • raulm 10 months ago
        That is also what I know around 10,000 rpm more or less, maybe just a typo error.
  • Ferman Lao
    Ferman Lao 10 months ago
    carwiki,

    You'll need to take it to the dealer to get it diagnosed. The warning light signifies a transmission problem. It could be electrical or mechanical. Hard to say without proper tools.
  • ElieTopaz 5 months ago
    This is a good article. I got convinced wit the point that the external material or impurities present in the oil is responsible for low turbine speeds and speeds can be increased due to removal of the impurities.


    http://www.lbautohaus.com



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