There’s something about long-haul train travel with scenic views that appeals to me as a traveler. Maybe it’s because it’s not something I regularly get to experience in our home country. While the Philippine National Railways (PNR) once operated the Bicol Express from Manila to Albay, the service has long been discontinued, and efforts to revive route segments like Naga to Legazpi have sadly been inconsistent.
Rail lines like the North-South Commuter Railway (NSCR) and the PNR South Long Haul Project are in the works, but it may take years before tourist-friendly train journeys become a reality in the Philippines.
In contrast, Vietnam, a favorite destination for Filipino travelers, has a rich railway system with over 140 years of history dating back to the French colonial era. Many visitors flock to Hanoi’s infamous Train Street to walk along the tracks and have coffee or drinks inches away from passing trains. But if you’re willing to splurge, you can also ride the train on a slow journey across the country.
On a recent Vietnam trip, we decided to try the Chapa Express Train from Sapa to Hanoi, as an alternative to the HK VIP Bus Line we took going there. More than just transportation, the ride turned out to be one of the trip’s highlights.
What is the Chapa Express train?
The Chapa Express is a boutique overnight train service operating between Hanoi and Lao Cai, the gateway to Sapa in Vietnam (among other routes). Its name comes from the old French name for the mountain town, home to Mt. Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest peak.
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Unlike normal commuter trains with upright seats, the Chapa Express offers comfortable sleeper cabins. Passengers can choose between air-conditioned four-berth deluxe cabins or more private two-berth VIP cabins for the eight-hour journey.
Train schedule and route
The train typically departs Hanoi around 10pm and arrives at Lao Cai around 6am, allowing for a full day in Sapa. From Lao Cai, Sapa is roughly an hour away by taxi or shuttle, which can be arranged in advance or easily booked once you get there.
Return trips usually leave Lao Cai at 9pm and arrive in Hanoi early the next morning. However, we chose a daytime departure at 11am, arriving at 7pm in Hanoi, so we could enjoy the passing scenery of rice fields, mountains, and small villages along the way.
Amenities and cabin experience
The train’s interiors evoke a vintage charm, with wooden furnishings, soft lighting, and classic decor. Cabins feature premium bedding, free Wi-Fi, power sockets, and storage space under the bed.
We stayed in a two-berth VIP cabin in the Tonkin Heritage Express, the first carriage near the main engine room, also operated by Chapa Express. The room was cozy and modern, with high-quality sheets, soft pillows, and surprisingly thick mattresses that cushioned the vibrations and rocking motions of the train.
It felt more like a compact hotel room than a train compartment. The cabin included complimentary snacks and drinks like instant noodles and bread, as well as local beer and fresh fruit. We could completely close the sliding wooden cabin door for privacy, or leave it open to have a better view of the window across the hallway.
The shared restrooms with toilets and sinks at either end of each carriage are modern, clean, and well-maintained. In case you’re wondering, there’s no bathing area.
While our experience was great, amenities can vary depending on the carriage. The furnishings in the main Chapa Express cart were even more luxurious and designed with H’Mong details. Some of the older cabins down the line under Vietnam Railways had basic and older-looking interiors. The two-berth twin rooms are basically the same as the four-berth cabins, with upper decks folded up. But solo travelers booking four-berth beds should be prepared to share the space with strangers, and upper bunks might feel cramped for taller passengers.
For families or small groups, booking an entire cabin is recommended, while couples and solo travelers may prefer the privacy of a two-berth cabin, despite the premium price tag.
Food and onboard experience
I was a bit disappointed to find out that there’s no dedicated dining car or cafe on the train itself. It’s best to have a meal before the trip. At Lao Cai station, before riding, there’s a VIP lounge for hot meals and lots of cafes nearby.
The train has a hot and cold water dispenser available for drinks. The complimentary snacks help tide you over, and a conductor occasionally passes with a cart selling more instant noodles, drinks, and chips. At some stops, vendors even hop on briefly to sell snacks like boiled eggs.
Compared to the bus ride, the train offers more freedom to move around. We were able to stretch our legs, get great views, catch up on some online work, and watch a movie. Train to Busan hits different if you watch it while on a moving train.
The best thing to do on a sleeper train is to sleep, which you can do so luxuriously here, to the rhythmic and soothing motions of the train.
Booking tips and price
Tickets can be booked directly through the Chapa Express website or via platforms like Klook. Because each carriage has limited cabins, it’s best to book early, especially during peak travel seasons (September to November and March to May) or holidays.
Ticket prices vary depending on cabin class and room type, but start roughly at $42 per ticket for a bed in a four-berth cabin or $180 for a two-berth cabin good for two. For comparison, the direct Hanoi-Sapa bus we took going to Sapa cost just P687 per person.
Verdict
While the Chapa Express train is slower (eight hours versus six hours) and more expensive than taking the bus, it offers a unique and memorable experience. We actually wouldn’t have minded if the journey had taken much longer. If you think about it, overnight trips can save you the cost of a hotel stay while traveling, making it a practical option for some tourists.
More than just a way to get from one city to another, the journey felt relaxed, nostalgic, and a bit romantic. It’s a great experience for couples, families, or anyone who wants to enjoy the charm of train travel—something we can only hope to experience more of in the Philippines in the future. Definitely a must-try for fans of railway travel and slow journeys!
